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A man’s home is his castle, as the saying goes. But homes today don’t normally feature ramparts, drawbridges, moats and six-foot thick stone walls to keep out unwanted visitors. Today, a house alarm, and preferably a managed home security system, is needed to ensure your home’s security. Not only does installing a home security system improve the safety of your family and possessions, but it can also decrease your home insurance costs. The Top Ten House Alarm and Home Security Devices list highlights ten devices and features of home security systems that can make your house a safer place.

The Top Ten

10. Talking Devices help you to understand the status of your home and monitoring as well as program the system. Some security systems feature talking master control panels, key pads or remotes. The talking feature may not result in great conversation, but it will help you understand your system a little better.

9. Some home alarm systems include extras like Key Fobs and Remotes to control the system at a distance. Somewhat similar to a car’s key fob, home security key fobs include buttons to activate and deactivate the house alarm system. Some even include a “panic” button that activates the house alarm and alerts the proper authorities in the event of an emergency. Remote controls are similar and often larger. The features of remotes vary greatly and can include a full key pad, a talking feature and a panic button as well.

8. Yard Signs and House or Window Decals advertise your home’s protection. The Greenwich Study of Residential Security found that homes without alarms were 2.7 to 3.5 times more likely to be burglarized, and that the most effective deterrent was the alarm monitoring company’s yard sign (SIA Research Update, Security Industry Association, October 2001). Some choose to post the signs to deter possible break-ins without actually installing a home alarm system. While this effort will lower the odds of an attempted burglary, a yard sign alone cannot fully protect your home.

7. A Back-Up Power Supply is important in maintaining home security even during a power outage, when the risk of break-ins and looting is increased. Your home alarm should be effective even when your power is not. The easiest to maintain back-up power supplies use standard size batteries. Look for a model that uses rechargeable batteries to lower your maintenance costs.

6. Smoke Detectors add another layer of protection to your home, especially when they are integrated into the home alarm system. Not only do smoke detectors indicate a fire and give you time to escape safely, but when included in a home security package, they automatically notify the managing company and the fire department. Some systems even integrate the power supply to the smoke detectors. That means you don’t have to change the batteries ever!

5. Wireless Systems protect your home without adding extra cords to trip over or extensive installation of in-wall cords. In wireless house alarm systems, each sensor or keypad communicates with the master control panel via radio frequencies or existing wiring in your home. A burglar will never be able to disarm the system by snipping the wires. This ensures the system is fully integrated and monitoring all parts of your home without using up your outlets or creating an obstacle course of wires for you.

4. Extra Key Pads are also important. Exterior mounted key pads can provide secure keyless entry to your family. Some systems also offer remote control key pads which are lightweight and portable. A home alarm system that features a security code with a key pad increases the security of your home. A monitored system can also lock down entry after several repeated, failed attempts at entry which indicate a possible break-in attempt.

3. Key pads may not always be enough to keep burglars out. Sensors on Windows and Doors reduce the risk of a burglar entering undetected and are a key part of a home alarm system. Motion Detectors within the home also increase the level of security. The most sophisticated motion detectors include a feature to ignore pets’ movement to avoid constantly setting the alarm off inadvertently.

2. Installation, Monitoring, and Repair Services increase not only the level of safety but the convenience of keeping your home safe. A house alarm alone cannot notify the police or fire department in the event of an emergency. The most complete systems include buttons to notify police departments, fire departments and medical help instantly. Another advantage offered by the best monitoring companies is live customer support and full service installation and repair of the system by employees who have been background checked, licensed and drug tested to ensure your safety. Finally, some companies even offer relocation services to keep you secure even when you move.

1. The classic Master Control Panel is vital to any home alarm system. The central hub of the system, the control panel is usually wall-mounted in an easily accessible place. The panel receives information from all other sensors and key pads, computes it, and transmits relevant information to the monitoring company. If you choose to arm the system from the panel when you leave the house, the master control panel also receives the disarm code when you return home. Some can even be disarmed by telephone!

Of course, this list is not comprehensive, and the needs of every home and homeowner are different. For more tips on choosing the right home alarm system and features to protect your house, I recommend visiting alarmoneinc.com.

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Security has become second nature to people over the years, whether it be your home, car, or personal belongings. Our computers are no exception to this, as digital thieves are lurking everywhere, and can be almost impossible to detect by the average computer user. Preventing unauthorized access to your wireless home or business network (Wi-Fi) is an extremely important measure to take, as a hacker doesn’t need to know you personally to target you, and they can be in a house or apartment nearby, or even parked in a car on the street. Wi-Fi hackers have been known to drive around neighborhoods searching for wireless networks in people’s homes, gain access through various unlocked doors in a wireless router’s configuration, and then have a field day with your information. In this article, we will go step by step through the different configurations of your wireless router that leave your network vulnerable, and what to change to make your network virtually hacker proof.

Step 1: The first thing that we have to do is login to our router’s configuration utility. To do so, you must first figure out what your gateway’s IP address is. You can do this by going to Start > Run and typing in CMD. This will open a session of command prompt. In command prompt, type ‘ipconfig’ without the quotations, and press enter. If done while connected to your network, this will return several different numbers. The one we need is listed as “Default Gateway”. Take the IP address listed as “Default Gateway” and write it down, or copy it. If you’re not familiar with IP addresses, it is a series of numbers separated by periods like this: 192.168.1.1 In fact, this particular IP address I just used as an example is the most common gateway, but yours may be listed as something different. Now, with this IP address copied, open a web browser such as internet explorer or Firefox, and paste or type the IP address exactly as it shows into the address bar and press enter. This will bring up the login page for your router. If you know your login details enter them here, if not, you will have to find the manufacturer’s User ID and password for your router. You can find this in the manual that came with the router, or by going to the manufacturer’s website and searching for the manual under the router’s model number (this can be found on a sticker on the back, side, or bottom of the router.) You can first try common ones like “admin” for the User ID, and “password” for the password, or “admin” for both User ID and password. If these don’t work, refer to the manufacturer’s manual for the User ID and password. If you set up your own User ID and password and forgot them, or the manufacturer’s default User ID and password are not working, if other people in your home have access to the router or it had a previous owner, the default User ID and password may have been changed. In such a case you can reset them back to the defaults by pressing and holding the reset button on the back of the router for at least 5 seconds. Now you can login using the default User ID and password set by the manufacturer.

Step 2: Change your User ID and password if they are set to the manufacturer’s defaults. If someone gains access to your wireless network, they can easily log into your router’s settings and change them to their liking.

Step 3: Change your SSID. Your SSID is the name that you see for your wireless network when you search for open networks using a Wi-Fi enabled device. If the SSID is set to the manufacturer’s default, anyone searching for an open network nearby can see yours, and with a little searching on the internet they can figure out the model number of your router which will help them gain access to your router’s settings.

Step 4: Disable broadcasting of your SSID. Broadcasting of an SSID is simply how when you search for open networks in an area, the names of open networks will show on your device. If you disable broadcasting of your SSID, when people search for open networks, yours will not even show up, so essentially, they will not know your wireless network even exists. You will still be able to connect to your network by typing your SSID into your Wi-Fi enabled devices manually.

Step 5: If available, enable WPA2 encryption. If WPA2 is not available, enable WPA encryption. If neither is available and only WEP is available, search your router’s manual or website for information on updating your router’s firmware. An update for your router may include support for WPA or WPA2 encryption. If no update is available to your current router, you may consider buying a new router as yours is likely very outdated. WPA2 encryption is ideal as it is much more secure than WPA and especially WEP.

Step 6: Setup a Pre-Shared Key or PSK or Network Key. Whatever your router calls it, this is the “password” to your network. This is not to be confused with the password that we changed in step 2 for your router. Your Pre-Shared Key that you setup should be impossible to guess, and should include uppercase and lowercase letters, numbers, and special characters. It is very important to include all of these to make it almost impossible to crack, but don’t make it so long that it takes you 5 minutes to enter it into every device. If it is difficult to remember, you can always look it up whenever you need by logging into your router’s settings again.

Step 7: Enable MAC Address Filtering or MAC Address Authentication. This step is optional, and should only be performed if you do not have visitors that use your Wi-Fi, or if the devices that use your Wi-Fi are consistently the same devices. A MAC Address is basically an ID that every internet or network enabled device has that looks something like this: 00:20:e0:00:41:00. Every device ever created has a unique MAC address so that they can be properly identified on a network as an individual. Using MAC Address Filtering or Authentication only allows the specific devices that you select to connect to your wireless network. Any outside devices will not be able to connect because their MAC Address will not be in the list you create of allowable devices. To add your Wi-Fi enabled devices to access list, you first need to obtain the MAC Address of each device. For computers and laptops, you can simply go to Start > Run and type ‘CMD’ without quotation marks. This will bring up a Command Prompt window. Then type in ‘ipconfig /all’ without quotation marks, and press enter. Something saying “Physical Address” should be listed somewhere near the top. Next to it you will see your computer’s MAC Address. It may be listed with hyphens in between every 2 characters instead of colons like in the example above. This is okay, just make sure when you enter the MAC Address into the access list that you do it in the format required by your router, so you may need to change all hyphens into colons. Do this for all computers connecting your wireless network. For devices such as IPods, IPads, cell phones, etc., you will have to search for your device information most likely in the Setup menu (or it may be somewhere else depending on the device). Here, if it is a Wi-Fi enabled device, you will find the MAC Address. Do this for all non-computer devices that connect to your wireless network and add them each to your access list. Don’t forget, every time you purchase a new device or someone visits and wants to use your Wi-Fi, you will have to perform this step.

It is important to perform all steps to properly secure your wireless network, except for the optional step #7. There are other security measures that can be implemented, however the above steps are the most important, and most necessary to prevent unauthorized access to your wireless network. If you completed all of the steps listed in this tutorial, you can feel confident that your wireless network is now virtually impenetrable.

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Lynch Superstore in Burlington has been growing with Southeastern WI since 1965. This 2007 BMW 650i Convertible is striking Gray with Taupe Leather Interior. Save thousands & buy now for $41990 with only 35873 miles! This car has successfully undergone a rigorous 100+ point safety inspection and is a One Owner Vehicle! Lynch Superstore also offers Extended Warranty options for this Vehicle. We will ship directly to your door. Vehicle Options Include: Navigation System, Anti-Theft Device(s), Side Air Bag System, BMW Assist and Bluetooth System, Multi-Function Steering Wheel, Rollover Protection System, Passenger Seat Height Adjust, Rain Sensing Wipers, Memory Mirrors, Air Conditioning, Vanity Mirrors, Vehicle Stability Assist, Tire Pressure Monitor, Xenon Headlights, EBD Electronic Brake Dist, EBA Emergency Brake Asst, Traction Control System, Memory Seating, Auto Express Down Window, Anti Theft/Security System, Active Suspension, Convertible Wind Deflector, Auto-Dimming Mirrors, Emergency Trunk Release, Run Flat Tire System, Rear Wheel Drive, Adaptive Head Lights, Power Steering, Power Door Locks, Power Windows, Clock, Tachometer, Cruise Control, Power Passenger Seat, Power Convertible Top, Power Lumbar Seat(s), Compass, Bucket Seats, Trip Computer, Fog Lamps, Daytime Running Lights, Remote Trunk Release, Door Pocket(s), Power Driver’s Seat, Center Console, Heated Outside Mirror(s), Rear Center Armrest, Power Lumbar Driver Seat, Power Mirrors, Steering Wheel Audio …

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www.bavsound.com | Part 1/4: The complete procedure for removing factory speakers in E39 5 Series Sedan or Wagon (wagon has speakers in hatch ceiling and very easy to remove – not shown, refer to PDF guide at www.bavsound.com) years ‘99-05 and replacing them with BSW’s STAGE I factory speaker upgrade kit (www.bavsound.com). This kit is very simple to install and perfectly replaces the factory speakers with better sounding, superior quality BSW drivers. Perfect fit and impedance. The guide covers all speaker locations found in the DSP and Business CD (standard) systems.

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www.1aauto.com 1AAuto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a broken, cracked, damaged, slow-moving, or stuck power window regulator and motor. This video is applicable to 1998-2002 Honda Accord models.

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You left the car window down or the sunroof open and there’s a water stain in your car’s leather seat….or your girlfriend spilled here red wine in your leather car seat on a night out on the town….or your kids decided they were a soon to be artist and tried their techniques out on your leather car seat with a pen, arrggg. Got kids myself, so feel your pain. Stain removal in leather seats can be tough, here’s a few tricks to help get you going.

As a professional leather repair specialist I’m here to tell you that there are not to many products that can be used on a leather car seat that won’t remove the finish before removing the stain. Most leather in todays cars is a finished leather with a water borne urethane leather dye applied to it and is pretty susceptible to chemicals and can be removed pretty easily with a solvent cleaner. So when in doubt call a professional.

Water stains in Leather Seat….this is a pretty hard one to get rid of. I recently had reader send me an email on how he could get the water stains out of his car after leaving his sunroof open. This part is kinda for him considering I think I lost his email with pictures, I did get to see them though, so not all was lost. The pictures showed a crease that ran along the middle of the leather seat where the water had puckered the leather. In this type of situation there are two things we could do, one is sand the crease out and with some fillers and dye make the seat new again, this is where a leather professional comes in to play, or replacement of the section that is creased, that’s where an upholstery shop comes in. In these type of situations there aren’t any leather conditioners or cleaners in the world that will remove a creased or puckered leather, what happens is the actual structure of the fibers in the leather have been altered and what you see is what you have.

If the water hasn’t puckered the leather and has just left a stain, a little trick I learned from my good friend Dwain Berlin with Leather Craft Secrets, and you go to your bread box in the kitchen for this one. Take a piece of bread and roll it up into a ball and rub and blot the area with the bread ball, works pretty good. Dwain has a lot of great advice for leather care, and if your interested in some great fun with leather go check out his book, it’s quite impressive and I myself learned a few things.

Most of the time water will just evaporate and with no problems and the stains will disappear. If your car leather gets wet dry it as best you can with a towel and then condition it with your Lexol Conditioner. One way to dry the cars leather is by leaving the windows down and setting it in the sun to dry, or crack the windows and turn your car on with the heat on full blast and let it run for about 30 minutes. I’m not real hip on that one cause it’s a waste of gas but it does work to dry things out better. But always condition, some rain waters are pretty dirty and harsh and the leather needs those extra nutrients to keep it soft.

If the stains are just too bad then new leather dye is the only way to bring it back then call your local leather professional like me to come and make it new again.

Mold Stains in Leather Seat….Or mildew which ever. This one kinda goes along with the water stains. Take and mix a cup of water and a cup of rubbing alcohol and mix them together, take a towel and rub a small amount of the solution onto the stained areas, until the spot is gone, again watch for dye lift, this trick works pretty well and usually removes the mildew pretty quick without dye removal.

Food Stains in Leather Seat….This one can be an easy one if you just don’t eat in your car, but I’m just as guilty as most and eat on the run. A mild dish soap and warm water with a rag or scotch brite pad will do the trick in most cases. Most automotive leather is finished and food stuffs usually will wipe right off. If you run into a stubborn one though try a little all-purpose degreaser on a rag, don’t rub too much or dye may lift. If the stain on your leather car seat from food doesn’t come up with this then the dye from the food has penetrated the fibers of the leather and has dyed it, so it’s time for a professional leather dye job.

Aniline leather or NuBuck leather is a different story though, thats the soft stuff you see as an inserted piece usually in the middle of the seats. You can use the soapy solution but water spots sometimes show up, so a special cleaner works best for this kind of leather. One I suggest is from the guys over at Leather Magic, they have a NuBuck Leather Care Kit that is the answer to all your NuBack needs. This kit includes cleaners and conditioners for the soft stuff, this type of leather is delicate and should be treated as such. Don’t use your usual leather cleaners and conditioners on this type of leather due to fact of the oils in them will damage the look of the leather, then no more soft feeling NuBuck, so definatly check out Leather Magics NuBuck Kit.

Ink, Marker, and Crayon on Leather Seat….Urgent!!! Get to it as soon as you can! If the ink is fresh you have a better chance of removing it from the leather then not. Rubbing alcohol, with a little bit of acetone added will sometimes get it. I’ve heard of hairspray, tried it with not much luck. Usually when an ink pen and leather come together they marry and don’t split to easily. Ink is a dye and is made to penetrate whatever it comes into contact with. Most ink spots I’ve ran into I’ve usually had to dye the leather to cover the spot.

Crayon on a leather seat can be a booger if it’s melted in the seat, you can try this but be careful not to burn or pucker your leather. Take an iron and a paper towel and lay the paper towel over the crayon and with a low heat rub the iron over the paper towel over the crayon. The crayon will melt into the paper towel, move the towel around to clean spots until the crayon is gone, a little of rubbing alcohol should remove the remaining. This trick works on carpet and cloth too. If they’re just marks on the leather seat a little soap and water should do the trick or even a little rubbing alcohol on a towel works good to. If all fails there is a product from Protective Products Corp. that is all natural with no solvents that will remove crayon and lipstick it’s called Solv-It, but just like anything try a spot in an unsuspecting spot to see if it removes dye.

One last trick that I’ve read about around the net and am in the process of testing it, but it the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, they do work around the house, so why not the car too. I’ve removed crayon and marks on my walls before with them, I do notice it take a little paint with it though, but they do work. If you use one, be careful and don’t go ape sh$#, rub it then look, rub it then look, they will remove dye, so when using it take your time and check it as you go.

Sweat Stains in Leather Seat ….Salt stains from sweat can be pretty gross looking, but there is a little trick. Take and make a solution of 3 parts vinegar and one part water and wet a towel and rub the area clean, the vinegar breaks down the and helps to remove the stain.

Paint on Leather Seat….Paint removal on a leather car seat, well that ones a hard one. If it has dried it’s probably there to stay. If it’s a water color, just use soap and water to remove it. Latex house paint, you can try a little Goof Off but keep in mind this is a solvent and can damage the leather seat and remove dye. I have in the past been able to take my pocket knife and scrape it off. Wet the area first with a little water and lightly try to lift the paint off with your knife or even a razor blade, but don’t cut the leather. Mostly though this really doesn’t work without removing the dye underneath, but I have had luck sometimes. If its car paint, try a little paint reducer on a rag, but just wipe lightly and don’t soak the area with the reducer. Solvents and leather seats just don’t mix.

My best advice to all when it come to stains in your leather car seats, and that is to be conscious of what you do, try to keep our little Picasso’s pen free, keep our food out of our cars, roll the windows up and sunroofs closed, and always remember to treat the leather with your Lexol Conditioner on a regular basis, this helps to keep the leather car seats protected and soft and makes it easier to get the spills and accidents from turning into disasters.

But always remember that we leather repair professionals are here to save those leather car seats and bring them back to there original state. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me for all your leather repair needs.

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Just a quick vid on how to remove Ford F-150 door panel. Figured I’d make a vid since I had to work on it. One of the easiest ones to remove. Please subscribe and thanks for watching!

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As you’re driving down the turnpike and approaching the tollbooth, you reach for the switch to lower your window and nothing happens. The switch moves but the window does not budge. Not even a noise from the window motor can be heard which strongly suggests to you that the device is not functioning. You must stop your car and open up the door to pay the attendant before continuing on your trip. Thoughts of an expensive car repair bill are dancing through your head, putting you in a foul mood and tempering the anticipated fun of your getaway weekend. Don’t despair: you can repair the power window yourself and save a bundle over expensive dealership charges. Let’s take a look at the steps you can take to fix the problem yourself and save a lot of cash in the process.

Before assuming that the window regulator must be replaced you should first rule out the possibility of dirty electrical contacts. On most cars the main power for all switches goes through the master switch located at the driver’s console. Sometimes the switch is dirty causing the window to malfunction. If this is the case, take the necessary steps to clean the contact and your problem should be resolved.

Should you determine that the contacts are clean and your switch is functioning, then it is likely that the motor has burned out and is in need of replacing. Whether you are installing a Honda window regulator or a Volkswagen window regulator, or a regulator for any other make the steps involved in replacing a window regulator are usually quite similar:

1. Remove the door panel for the affected window.

2. Locate and remove the bolts holding the regulator to the door; it is likely you will have to manually lower the window in order to access the bolts.

3. Remove the old regulator, disconnect all wiring, and replace the old regulator with a new one you have purchased from a parts supplier. Shop online to find the best value as you will pay a mint if you order one through a dealership.

4. Tighten the bolts holding the new regulator and reinstall the moisture barrier. Make sure all the wires are put back in the door before closing the door panel.

5. Engage the power window switch and the new regulator should work unimpeded.

Of course, follow your car’s repair manual for specific instructions.

I’ve given to you a general outline to convince you that this is a task that even a novice mechanic can handle – in other words: you can do it! By handling the problem yourself, you’ll save plenty of money by avoiding garages who will mark up the replacement part as well as tack on several hours of labor costs to your bill. Shop online to compare prices and to receive the best shipping and handling arrangements available.

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